Onto our new construction project: Soy Callejerito

CONSTRUCTION:

We got transferred to a new project on Tuesday called “Soy Callejerito”, which translates to “I am a little wanderer of the streets. We help build shelters for stray dogs that needed to be transferred from the old shelter location.

Construction at the dog shelter where we were working for our last four days went really well. It was a lot different than the previous plastering, sanding, and staining at the classroom but has been a good learning experience. It has been very fulfilling to actually construct something over the course of a few days. We’ve worked hard removing nails from plywood used for the dog house foundation, digging holes for poles to form house walls, and hammering aluminum sheets to form some sort of woof – oh wait I mean roof.

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We partnered with another Maximo Nivel team for this project – the animal restoration project. They were very passionate about the cause and were working hard on the construction site each day despite the fact that they had intended to directly be working with dogs for the majority of their time in Cusco. They told us when they first started working on the site just a few weeks ago, it was just a barren mess of garbage and dirt.  We’ve all worked on clearing out garbage and making the earth flat so eventually ceramic tiles could be overlaid.

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The final day was bittersweet as we completely finished one dog house section and nearly completed the foundation of another. It was sad to leave our construction leader Marco, who’s promised to share updated pictures of the site.

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(Before & After)

FOOD:

We’ve seen quite a few “Chifa” restaurants during our stay here, and were confused if it was just “China” spelled incorrectly since the restaurants seemed to serve Chinese food. We learned this week from Daja, our volunteer coordinator, that “Chifa” actually came from the term “eat rice” in Chinese, which is 吃饭 (chī fàn), and “Chifa” is now used to describe all the Peruvian-Chinese restaurants here in Peru.

Upon learning this information, we decided to give Chifa a try at a restaurant near Plaza de Armas, and our food came in huge portions with wonton soup for only 13 soles, which is about $3.94. Below is a picture of one of the dishes we got with chaufa (炒饭/fried rice), chicken, and vegetables:

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EXCURSIONS:

We ventured into a new neighborhood up the hill from the main plaza. San Blas is described as bohemian and artsy. After climbing many steps to get to the San Blas square, we went into the church there. The most notable piece in the church is the wooden pulpit, carved by the same artist who carved the pulpit in La Sagrada Familia in Cusco’s Plaza de Armas. As usual, we were quite hungry after walking around so we went into a place called The Meeting Room. They are a volunteer-based restaurant with all proceeds donated to various organizations. We had amazing milkshakes and waffles- we had to get in touch with our American roots at some point during the trip, we can only eat so many potatoes and plates of rice.

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After San Blas, as the sun was setting, we went up to the Cusco Planetarium. Family run, we learned the history of constellations in the Southern Hemisphere and the Incan’s use of the sky to keep time. We viewed a few constellations outside in telescopes and we were even able to see Mars and Saturn (and the rings too!). It was interesting to see differences in constellations below the equator. The Big Dipper doesn’t exist, and instead of the North Star there is the Southern Cross. The last part of the night was viewing all the constellations in a domed planetarium.

The next day we visited Maras y Moray. Maras is where the Salineras (salt flats) are. There are 4,000 individual salt pools that are cared for by local families. Water from the mountains fill each salt pool and the sun evaporates the water leaving just salt. When the salt is 50 centimeters tall, they harvest it and send it to restaurants and grocery stores. The salt from Maras is considered to be gourmet, and they also had floral and medicinal salts.

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Moray is the site where the Incans experimented agriculturally. The concentric circular terraces were used to grow a variety of things- potatoes, yuca, corn, etc. Most failed so they ended up using the terraces to grow coca plants (coca leaves are used to make tea that is supposed to help with altitude sickness).

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KEY LEARNINGS:

  • Nailing is harder than it looks and sawing vertically is highly inefficient. Since we took on a new site this week, we were challenged with new construction tasks. We’ve found it very interesting to compare how tasks are completed here in Peru with how we would have done them in the US.
  • Be careful what you eat – food poisoning is no joke (just ask Amy)
  • On the back of that last learning, if you puke in a cab, tip the driver extra! A huge shout-out to our cab driver at Maras & Moray, we’re not sure if Amy would’ve made it without him.
  • Some of our favorite phrases (and most commonly used) on this trip are as follows:
    • “¿Tienes wifi?”
    • “¿Cuánto cuesta?”
    • “¿Qué es?”
    • “¿Cómo se dice…?”
    • “¿Porqué no vamos?”
    • “¿Tienes jugo?”
    • “Yo no sé…”

Despite the laundry list of questions that we asked every single day, we managed to survive this Peruvian trip with significantly improved Spanish skills! Those that already had some high school or college experience improved their conversational skills and others with zero previous Spanish experience are now leaving with an arsenal of vocabulary and a hunger to learn more.

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(Peru crew pictured at Sacsayhuaman featuring our new friend, Esti!)

 

Mucho Machu Picchu y Más

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Yes – the time has come. We’ve been fortunate enough to be able to see and hike upon one of the Seven Wonders of the World – Montaña Machu Picchu. Don’t skip straight to that yet, though. There are plenty of other really cool things you should read about too:

CONSTRUCTION:

Work has been filled with laughter and music (Maddy’s personal highlight: Time of my Life from Dirty Dancing) our past few work days per usual, and we had a few new volunteers join us at our construction site. One volunteer, a girl named Esti who studies architecture in the United Kingdom, is a new member of our “Peru Crew.” We’ve just met her today and done several excursions with her and have planned several more for later this week. Today in construction, we finished varnishing the table, chairs and benches for the classrooms.  We are starting a new construction project in tomorrow morning. We will be building shelters for stray dogs with our construction leader, Marco, and we heard that we may have to opportunity to play with the ~40 dogs we are building houses for!

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FOOD:

This week we really branched out in our food choices. On Friday, we indulged in pizza. On Saturday and Sunday, we enjoyed Mexican quesadillas and fajitas. Today, we ate Korean food. Yes, I know, it doesn’t sound like we’ve really been immersing ourselves in traditional Peruvian food. But actually, we’ve been eating lots of it as well, we swear!

After a week of hearing about the classic Peruvian drink Chicha Morada, we finally had a chance to try it on our bus to Machu Picchu. We were unsure of what to expect, but the consensus was overwhelmingly positive. Essentially, Chicha Morada tastes like herbal grape juice.

Today, we visited Choco Museo (the Cusco Chocolate Museum). On our tour we learned about the chocolate making process, but more importantly got to try lots of chocolate. We tried cocoa beans, chocolate tea, dark/milk/white chocolate from various places in Peru, chocolate jam, and chocolate liqueur. We all walked away very satisfied, but longing for more.

MACHU PICCHU:

This weekend we were fortunate enough to visit one of the seven wonders of the world.

The weekend started with a pre-departure meeting where we received our train, bus, and entry tickets. We were urged to check our names and passport numbers, as the entrance to Machu Picchu is supposedly very strict with that information. Let me assure you they are not. Both Hannah Shilian and Hannah Scharpiro, both with incorrect passport numbers, were allowed in (despite my name actually being Hannah Schapiro).

After spending a day in Aguas Calientes (hot waters) where we relaxed in their “hot springs” (which ended up being small semi-warm but actually kind of cold pools in which people rubbed rocks on their faces), we crashed early so we would be well rested for our early morning.

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Our alarms went off at 4AM Sunday morning and we joined the other 400 people in line waiting for the buses to start running at 5:30AM. It was finally our turn and we ascended to the entrance half an hour up the mountain. We were initially a bit underwhelmed and bummed because of the lluvia (rain), but it ended up being a blessing because….

We hiked up a mountain.

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Now if you’re keeping up with our blog posts, you know that some of us are not as fit as we believe and walking up 3 stairs leaves us breathless. Now imagine instead of 3 steps it is actually hundreds of steps hugged by a cliff on one side and dirt/rocks on the other. Oh and don’t forget the high altitude. Without the rain the sun would’ve been shining and we would’ve been much hotter and much sweatier than we were three and a half hours later at the end of our hike.

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I don’t really need to say much more about how worth it the hike was- look at these pictures and you’ll understand. It was mysterious and mystical being at the top of the mountain looking down on ruins from hundreds of years with clouds surrounding us.

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After maneuvering down the hundreds of slippery steps we went on a tour of the actual ruins. Machu Picchu, which translates to “Old Mountain” in Quechua, is divided into  three distinct sections: agricultural, residential, and religious. We saw the Sun Temple, the Temple of Condors, some residential homes, and flat terraces built into the mountain. The population of Machu Picchu was somewhere between 800 and 1,000 people.

Post-tour, we started another hike to the Inca Bridge, but bailed halfway to play Cambio. Stay tuned for an in depth explanation of our new favorite card game and addiction.

Five exhausted EGLers headed back to the train. Our exhaustion lasted about 40 minutes when the train suddenly stopped, on came salsa music and a wolf-clown came dancing down the aisle. Then there was a fashion show for Perurail-specific Alpaca clothing. This is probably the weirdest experience we have ever had on a train, but let me assure you we were not dreaming. Here’s proof:

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Overall it was an amazing experience that left us all in awe. We are so fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit one of the most beautiful places on earth.

The excursions haven’t stopped after Machu Picchu, there are still so many more places in Peru that we haven’t seen yet.

Today we went to Cristo Blanco and Sacsayhuaman… Take some time… Sound it out… Yes it really does sound like “sexy woman.” But when we got there we figured out that it was actually just some pretty spectacular Incan ruins.

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One of the coolest parts of these ruins were the slides that were built into the natural stone for young Incans to enjoy. We of course took the opportunity to slide down these as well and the “best lungs” award went to Maddy in a landslide.

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KEY LEARNINGS:

  • Chocolate tea (tasted at the Choco Museo) offers the same health benefits as chocolate and has a similarly great taste
  • Llamas, seen at almost every historic site such as Machu Picchu as well as Sacsayhuaman serve as natural lawn mowers, as they don’t pull the grass out by its roots but only shorten it
  • You can barter not only at markets but at restaurants as well – especially those near Machu Picchu.  Waiters changed the prices of the menu in a snap due to ‘happy hour’ or other random circumstances to get you to eat there. Once I asked how much the quinoa soup was (which wasn’t even on the menu but I’m a big fan so I get it almost everywhere) and the waiter replied “uh 15 soles”
  • If you plan on being able to hike up Montana Machu Picchu, plan to arrive in the line at 4:30 a.m. to get there between 7 and 8 to start your hike. The line is incredibly long – but surprisingly not boring as we were all reading the Michigan Engineering Common Reading book “Spare Parts”…
  • You never know what’ll happen when you get on a train in Peru. On our train ride back, we experienced an incredibly unforeseen fashion show by the very people who had served us food and drinks just minutes before
  • If you’re in a hurry at a restaurant, ask for la cuenta (the check) early on, or else you may be there quite a while
  • Outlets in Peru are pretty cool because they work for both US and European plugs. Why aren’t all outlets shaped like those here?
  • Michigan Wolverines are EVERYWHERE. We’ve now heard “Go Blue” a total of four times on our just over one-week trip
  • There are much too many opportunities for Mexican food near Machu Picchu. Not sure why, but also slightly ashamed that we ate it twice. Sometimes you just really want a quesadilla.
  • At the Machu Picchu Incan ruins, doors that faced east were once houses and doors that faced any other directions were for storage. Thought it would be helpful to know if you were looking to live there. After seeing our pictures I’m sure it’s tempting.
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Breath-taking (literally…)

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LIVING (en la casa):

This week I (Nate) made a 4 year old cry. Unfortunately, I was forced to break the news that we could not do rompecabezas (puzzles) at night and many tears ensued. Saying no to little kids is a weakness of mine, but I guess it’s an important skill for the future. Luckily, we were able to redeem ourselves by doing two puzzles last night. Other than that incident and the ice showers, everything has been great at home! Since we’ve gotten more adventurous in our daily excursions, we’ve spent less time at home. However, our time at the house has been filled with food, Peruvian game shows, Cambio, attempted conversations with our host parents, and oh did I mention puzzles?

WORK (trabajo):

Rhianna’s song “Work” pretty accurately describes what this week in construction has been like. Or at least it’s been on the radio once every hour while we splatter plaster (yeso) on the ceilings and sand down benches (bancas) to be painted.

So far, I’m amazed with how much progress we’ve made at the site. The ceiling in “our” classroom is completely plastered and all of the furniture that ended up getting covered in plaster during the process is now cleaned, sanded, and varnished.

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In only a few days, I’m pretty sure we’ve become BFFLs with our construction project leader Marco and learned just about every construction related word possible. Beyond that, he’s started teaching us a few phrases in Quechua and his face lights every time we use them. Today, Hannah and Amy went on a mini excursion with Marco to the next town over to get some new supplies for the construction site. They both found it to be an amazing experience to get to practice their Spanish and get to know Marco better. The final conclusion? He’s pretty much the nicest guy around Cusco.

FOOD (comida):

We’ve all had some very good food the past few days and I’ve separated our typical meals into breakfast (desayuno), lunch (almuerzo), and dinner (cena) so you can get a taste of the Peruvian food we’ve had here.

Desayuno – Each day we are provided fantastic bread with butter. Sometimes the bread comes with egg, avocado, strawberry marmalade, or guacamole. Today we also got yogurt with our food.  Each day we also drink manzanilla tea (which today we learned was chamomile) and then are off to another day of work.  At work Marco shares some sort of soda that is similar to Sprite.

Almuerzo – Upon arriving at Pisaq (will talk about in excursion section) we searched for a restaurant and found one near the market. A few of us tried the quinoa soup for the first time which was quite tasty.  Amy got an Inca Kola soda which had an interesting flavor and was very carbonated.  Maddy had an avocado salad and was very excited to eat many vegetables.

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Cena – Today Daja and Sylvia visited for dinner which was a lovely surprise!  We were fed quinoa soup and salad along with this cool potato dish that had either hard-boiled egg or meat on the inside (super tasty).

EXCURSIONS (viajes):

After spending our Monday afternoon relaxing and playing a card game called “Cambio” for five hours, which is insanely fun by the way and has become a part of our daily routine, we spent Tuesday afternoon planning out the rest of our free time here in Cusco to better experience the culture and see everything that we possibly can with the short amount of time that we have.

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On Wednesday, we were ready to hike up to Cristo Blanco after volunteering, but a sudden storm changed our destination to Plaza de Armas, the main plaza in Cusco, which was completely okay with us. Instead, we stuck with indoor activities and visited El Templo de la Sagrada Familia and Museo de sitio del Qoricancha. We also spent the afternoon souvenir shopping in the area, and walked away with big yellow plastic bags filled with Peruvian goodies as well as interesting experiences detailed below in “KEY LEARNINGS.”

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After figuring out the local bus system, we decided to be adventurous and venture a bit further from Cusco on Thursday. We took a bus back to the city after volunteering and hopped on a colectivo that took us straight to Pisac, a Peruvian village in the Sacred Valley. After a 40-minute ride, we arrived in Pisac, enjoyed lunch at a local restaurant, and soon began our hike up Las Ruinas de Pisac. So you may have been wondering what the title of this blog was about… yes, our hike was literally and figuratively breathtaking. We may think we are young and fit (or kind of fit for some of us), but ascending to 11,000+ ft. via large stone steps along with an incredible view will leave you breathless. We met other hikers along the way- two men who were playing flutes and we attribute our climbing success to their sweet music.

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KEY LEARNINGS:

The sewage system is a bit different here, and toilet paper is supposed to go into the basura (trash can) instead of the toilet bowl. We remember to do this about 30% of the time, but we’re working on it, we promise! However, when we get back to Ann Arbor, we might accidentally be sticking to our Peruvian ways.

Most people here speak Quechua, a native language in Cusco. It isn’t widely used in day to day life, but parents will pass it on to their children. While we are still trying to learn Spanish, we have learned some Quechua from Marco, our construction project leader. At the end of a long day, we say pacarin cama, or see you tomorrow.

While Cheryl and Maddy were on the quest for laundry soap, they learned that “sopa” means soup not soap.

Asunta, a store selling alpaca goods, has been our most frequented place so far. We have been there four times. Yup, we went alpaca clothes shopping four times. The lady who greets us with a hug and a traditional Peruvian kiss on the cheek reminds us that we are all princesses (Nate included) and urges us to buy the entire store. And we did…. Here’s our tally:

  • 11 alpaca blankets
  • 9 alpaca sweaters
  • 4 pairs of socks
  • 3 paintings
  • 2 scarves
  • 2 pieces of jewelry
  • 1 rug
  • 1 hat

Needless to say we will be needing much larger bags for the way home. Do you think security will allow us to wear 11 blankets on the plane? That counts as clothing, right?!

El Museo de Pisco: We were quite adventurous with our drinks this week. Who knew that egg whites mixed with a grape-derived liquor would be good? Update: it was great!

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Greetings from Peru

Hola amigos!  Nosostros estamos bien.  Nosotros vivimos in Cusco.  Lo siento – Maddy and Cheryl are still working on our Spanish and enjoying every chance we get to practice.

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Cusco has been lovely — we arrived safely on Sunday around lunchtime, and upon arriving at Maximo Nivel (our volunteer organization), we went through orientation and soon got settled in.  Here’s an update on what we’ve been up to in the past few days!

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(from left to right: Cheryl, Nate, Hannah, Maddy, Amy)

LIVING (en la casa):

All five of us were fortunate enough to live with the same host family.  Marleni, Leo, Thiago y Franco.  Ellos son simpaticos.  The past few days, we’ve been doing a lot of puzzles with Thiago, a four year old boy who lives en la casa.  Another volunteer in our house is from Munich – Maddy’s grateful she can use some of her foreign language skills even here in Peru.

A typical day in this household begins with roosters shrieking at 4AM , but it’s okay because they ensure we will never sleep through an alarm. Breakfast is then served and we head over to take a bus to our site. The house is really nice, with a few particularly charming elements: the club music that plays 24 hours a day (think Billboard top 100), the trade-off between water pressure and temperature (lower pressure = warmer water…or does it?), and the kind, authentically Peruvian family that we speak to in butchered Spanish.

The house arguably doesn’t have a real address, but there is a convenient alley shortcut path that takes us to a main road. We have been very pleased with our first 2 nights here.

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WORK (trabajo):  

Our project for the next two weeks is construction at the Alina Library in Villa Maria. On our first day, we met our field manager, Daja, at Maximo Nivel and rode a “combis” into the hills of Cusco. Following our specific directions, we “walked until we reached a building” and followed the path up to the library. At Alina, we were greeted by our construction lead, Marco. After brief introductions, Marco put us straight to work plastering a new ceiling for the library. The task appeared quite daunting at first, but Marco insisted that it was “muy facil.” We quickly learned that our clothes and hair would take on a new shade of white and that plastering can be done with rather unconventional methods (for example, “usando sus manos” – even if it had to be behind Marco’s back). By the end of day one, we all agreed that our project wasn’t as daunting as it appeared, but Hannah and Marco disagreed quite a bit on the difficulty of the task.

On day 2, we arrived to the site on Michigan time (10 minutes late), but ready to get to work. However, we forgot that our team would be arriving on Peruvian time (show up whenever feels right). After a couple quick rounds of cards, Marco arrived with the keys and we continued our plastering. Marco has been incredibly patient with our broken Spanish and sub-par construction skills. However, the day went by quick and we are starting to become experts at mixing, spreading, splattering, and throwing plaster. We all walked away with sore muscles but high spirits, and are excited to get back to work tomorrow.

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FOOD (comida):

The first day we weren’t TOO adventurous with food, because apparently stuffing your face can make altitude sickness worse… boo. We did manage to share an assortment of empanadas though and fueron fantásticos. An empanada is sort of like a hot pocket pastry but a million times better.

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Besides managing what we eat, another way to curb the effects of altitude sickness is by chewing on or drinking tea made with Coca leaves. Coca is native to Peru and has historically been used for easing symptoms of altitude sickness and also for creating some pretty illicit drugs. Thankfully we’ve only been drinking the tea though… this altitude is as “high” as any of us will get.

In our home stay, we have had several delicious meals, but I don’t know what any of them are called… One night we had a pasta dish with egg which was nice and light on the stomach for the first day and since then we’ve many other good dishes. I think our favorite food at home so far was eating aguacuate (avocado) for breakfast the first morning.

We are working our stomachs up to the famous cuy (guinea pig) dinner, no matter what the others tell you.

EXCURSIONS (viajes):

Tonight we’re going to a salsa lesson through Maximo Nivel where we will take an intro to salsa dancing class and enjoy chips with guacamole.  We’re making many plans for excursions for the next few weeks and will have plenty more to write up on in the future.  But as for today, we went to a market and Cheryl successfully bartered for some pattered pants (pantalones).

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The transaction went like so:

Cheryl to shop lady: Me gusta los pantalones (I like the pants).

Shop lady: Ah si si solo veinte y seis soles! (Ah yes yes only 26 soles)

Cheryl to Hannah: How do you say 15?

Hannah to Cheryl: Quince.

Cheryl to shop lady: Quince?

Shop lady to Cheryl: Mmm no. Veinte y cuatro (24) soles.

Cheryl to Hannah: How do you say 20?

Hannah to Cheryl: Veinte.

Cheryl to shop lady: Veinte.

Cheryl walks out with a new pair of pants.

KEY LEARNINGS:

Baja – “let me off this bus”; roosters coo at all times of the day; you can choose one of two things when taking a shower – hot water or high pressure, but sometimes you don’t really get to choose; while you may think Peru would be warmer than Michigan, it’s winter here and it does get really cold at night; fish ordered comes with the head as well in case you were wondering.

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